OEM Outboard Anodes & Corrosion Protection

Wherever dissimilar metals sit together in water, a small electrical current flows between them and the less noble metal corrodes. On an outboard that means the lower unit, brackets and trim hardware. Sacrificial anodes are the defense: they are made to corrode first, so the engine does not.

This collection holds genuine OEM anodes for Suzuki, Honda and Yamaha outboards, including lower unit anodes, trim tab anodes and the internal anodes fitted to some powerheads. To see one brand only, go to Suzuki anodes, Honda anodes or Yamaha anodes.

Frequently asked questions

When should anodes be replaced?

Inspect them at least once a year and replace any anode that is more than half consumed. Boats kept in the water need checking more often.

Zinc, aluminum or magnesium?

The material has to suit the water. Zinc is the traditional choice for salt water, aluminum works in salt and brackish water, and magnesium is for fresh water only. The wrong material either wears out early or does not protect.

Can I paint over an anode?

No. An anode has to be bare metal in contact with the water and with the part it protects. Paint, or corrosion under the mounting bolt, stops it from working.

My anodes are not wearing. Is that good?

Not necessarily. An anode that shows no wear at all may not be making electrical contact. Check that the mounting surface is clean and the bolt is tight.

Where do I find the anodes for my motor?

Look up your model in the Suzuki parts diagrams or Yamaha parts diagrams, or send us the model and serial number. Anodes are also part of the scheduled service covered by our maintenance kits page.

Boat Max Online is an authorized dealer for all three brands; every anode is a genuine OEM part. Free shipping on orders over $149 to the lower 48 states.